From one family’s love…
When I sat down with Mary Beth Keefe, head brewer at Granite Brewery, I asked her whether she believed there was a ‘craft beer lifestyle,’ and, if so, what that might mean to her. Being a part of a family business with a history, like Granite Brewery, means that she’s been on payroll since she was 11 years old. If anyone might have a hint at what a craft beer lifestyle is then, it’s got to be Mary.
“The way that I’m interpreting that question is – well, I pretty much only exclusively drink Ontario craft beer. I just love the idea of supporting local and the people in my local industry.
“And that’s something that I’m blown away by on a daily basis almost: if you need help from another brewery, like Amsterdam for instance, I’ve gone to them many times, because I’m known for being last minute,” which we chuckle together about before she continues, “And, so – I’m going to brew a beer tomorrow, and I’m like, ‘Oh my God, I don’t have any of this grain!’ There’s no way of getting it in time, so I’ll ask Ian at Amsterdam if he happens to have any. He’s always like, ‘Oh ya, for sure – just take it.’ And he’ll just give me the grain.
“Or hops – that’s happened before – I couldn’t find Azacca hops, and Great Lakes just gave me the hops. It’s always like this. Just everyone always willing to help; if you have any questions, they’re always willing to give you the answers or give you their advice or whatever. So just being like that, as well, being helpful and doing what you can for the people – that’s the craft beer industry…
“I don’t know – just, I love my job… I don’t know, it’s just such a great industry to be a part of.”
…to the love shared within an entire industry
Opening in 1991, Granite Brewery is located at Eglinton Ave and Mount Pleasant, but the history of this brewery will take us back further – and out of province.
The first Granite Brewery was opened in 1985 in Halifax by Mary’s uncle, Kevin Keefe. It was the first brewpub in Nova Scotia. Success took a bit of time with local residents, but within 6 years, Kevin’s brother, Ron, would be opening the brewery’s second location, the one I visited in Toronto.
Here, on a wall near the bar, hangs a special piece of memorabilia. One of the first guests to the Toronto brewpub bet Ron $1 (which, of course, was worth much, much more way back at the beginning of the 90’s…) that Granite Brewery wouldn’t last 6 months in Toronto.
Today, that bill hangs on the wall as a reminder to the power of locally crafted product created by passionate individuals; and a reminder that the brewery is now only a year away from its 30th anniversary – a feat that most other craft breweries are many years away from matching.
Traditional comfort
Walking through the front patio into Granite Brewery brings you through two doors to a very traditional-looking British pub inside. The bar sits to the left of the entrance with a number of two-top tables arranged in front and along the large front windows. To the right of the entrance is another room, one fashioned with large book shelves at one end, providing a comforting, library-like atmosphere.
A hallway leads you further into the brewpub, passed a small production area on the left and two stuffed, Sesame Street-esque mannequins playing a game of chess that has lasted decades on the right, and into a large dining room at the back. A fireplace at the south end of the dining room provides a cozy environment in the winter, and the large, semi-sheltered back patio provides plenty of reason to enjoy a Granite beer in the summer sunshine.
I always like to sit at the bar, and this one provides a tightly-knit look at the hustle going on from the bartenders behind it. Ancient television shows and black and white movies play on a small screen behind the bar, but otherwise, there isn’t a TV in sight in this place. It’s about the British-style beer and comfort food. (See the full Granite Brewery photo gallery here.)
A special kind of brew
Granite Brewery brews beer in a way that is fairly unique in North America. Using a yeast from Yorkshire in England, Ringwood yeast provides a particular flavour profile to their beer – one that might be prevalent in England, but much harder to find on this side of the pond.
On this side, we’re used to closed fermentation: oxygen will destroy most beer in production. Not so with the Ringwood strain, which actually wants the oxygen to do its wonderful work, and therefore requires an open fermentation. This particular yeast produces a signature flavour that stands out against the majority of North American beers. You’ll likely taste more malt, earthiness, and fruitiness, while gaining a slightly higher ABV and a creamier mouthfeel. When used right, Ringwood is special.
Using it right
Granite Brewery in Halifax was the first brewery in North America to use and build a system for Ringwood yeast. Kevin Keefe wanted something other than what was on the market at the time, and wanted to explore the traditional English-style beers. The mantra was to brew on this unique system with only the four key ingredients of beer (something that is becoming less and less common these days), and that philosophy stuck with Ron, and now with Mary.
Perfecting their use of this system was important to producing the product they wanted to drink and sell, and the Keefe brothers spent the first years learning how to use the yeast and how to brew well with it. They wanted to do it right, but this isn’t the only way a craft brewery does things right. Indeed, Granite’s connection to its surrounding community is equally important for their success.
Spread the love
Granite’s connection to its community runs deep, but for a brewery that has stood as long as it has in this location, this shouldn’t be too surprising. An establishment like this is unlikely to last otherwise.
For their 25th anniversary in 2016, Granite launched a scholarship program, awarding a pool of $5,000 to qualified candidates needing support for their education. It has become a yearly award, typically handed out to locals keen on growing their knowledge, whatever their interest might be: it doesn’t need to be beer-related, which is great at bringing the community together, regardless of interests.
Coming up next month is a pair of back-to-back events that Granite is hosting, both going to support Sistering. Sistering is a local not-for-profit charity, providing aid for at-risk, socially isolated women and trans people in Toronto. On March 8th, Granite will launch a collaboration New England IPA with the Society of Beer Drinking Ladies, with a portion of the sales of the brew going towards Sistering. The following day, on March 9th, they will host a Sistering fundraiser with the launch of another new beer, the “Pirate Queen,” with $1 of every pint sold going to support the charity.
Only a few examples are mentioned here (from a history of almost 30 years), but they go to show how significant Granite knows its community is to them. Doing it right in the craft beer industry means producing great beer and being an integral part of your community. Granite is doing it right.
The People of Granite Brewery
I had the pleasure of having a chat with Andrew Crawford, a bartender at Granite Brewery. Andrew’s been in the mix here now for 14 years(!), which says a lot about how Granite operates. This is a family affair, even if your not blood-related, and staff here become a part of that family and the feel of the brewery itself.
In my typical way, I asked Andrew some pairing questions, which kind of went a bit horribly for me. It was just way too obvious when Andrew announced that his favourite Granite brew was the “Dark Side” black IPA, and my question was, “Which movie would you pair that with?”
“Um, Star Wars – duh.”
“Ok, let me try again – what music might you pair that with then?”
“Come on: Pink Floyd’s ‘Dark Side of the Moon” – like really?!”
Let’s move on then, shall we, Andrew? (Shit!)
Much more interesting was Andrew’s response to what his take on a ‘craft beer lifestyle’ might be. His answer was one of criticism: “To be honest, I think it’s a bit elitist. I mean, culture is a bit spoiled these days by the incredible access to great craft beer, and this creates a bit of a snob culture; a bit of the ol’ hipster outlook on things, I find.”
Andrew’s point is a good one here. There’s a fine line between being passionate about your choice of beverage and being a pushy, demanding snob, and there’s too many of us out there that cross that line these days. I am aware of that line, and work hard not to cross it (although I am sure there’s been the odd occasion I’ve failed at that… But really – glassware is important, I tells ya!!).
Granite Brewery: a passion project
I spent more time speaking with head brewer, Mary Beth Keefe, the daughter of Toronto Granite founder, Ron Keefe. Mary has essentially grown up in this brewery, but that doesn’t mean her only experience is here.
While she was on payroll by the age of eleven and she always thought that “what [her] dad did was like the coolest job ever,” her passion for her father’s product waned a bit during her late teens and early twenties when she went off to university to study filmology. Upon completion of her degree, Mary went off travelling and landed in England where she lived with her boyfriend. Getting a job at a local British pub reignited her passion for her father’s product, and the British pub he was running back at home.
Soon after, Mary moved back to Toronto, and with her new-found love of craft beer, she got back into the thick of things at Granite with her father – this time, destined to take over for Ron as the next head brewer of Granite Brewery. She has held that post now since 2008.
From behind to in front of the curtain
The passion with which Mary speaks of Granite is deep and unsurprising for someone who has spent most of their life, and seen their family spend most of their life, making Granite Brewery work. One point she was very keen I make (and one I am certainly happy to include) is how important and supportive her mother, Denise Keefe, has been to the Granite project.
“Everyone talks about my dad, but my mom deserves a heck of a lot of credit.”
Denise has never officially worked at Granite, but she acts as a sort of glue that keeps the place together. Whether that be planting new flowers on the patios, sharing a laugh with guests, or taking care of all the little details that easily get missed with an operation of this scope, Denise is the indispensable ‘woman behind the curtain.’ Her efforts, support, and unconditional love, according to Mary, is one big reason the brewery still stands today.
With me though, I’m a showman and a guy therefore outside of the curtain, and in order to properly fulfill my vocation, Mary was happy to connect me with a few of Granite’s brews so that I could go off with them on another pairing mission…
Pairingwith… Granite Brewery’s “Galactic” Pale Ale
The “Galactic” pale ale from Granite Brewery is one of the brewery’s flagship beers, available year round. It makes for a trendy pairing with Cherry Cola’s, Toronto’s newest and hippest live music venue.
Blast off with this pale ale that pours a straw-golden colour, and provides a wonderful aroma of topical fruits and fruity yeast. A mild citrus melts with the pine and earthy bitterness to produce a lovely American- meets English-style pale ale that can go down often and easily.
The citrus-pine combination here provides a playful mix of fun that is reminiscent of a night at Cherry Cola’s: sweaty, loud, and sexy rambunctiousness. Whether a new underground indie band, sonic manipulator, or retro-classic outfit is rocking the plush with red velvet interior, whether it’s another burlesque night or crazy cocktail event, this is “Toronto’s sexiest live music venue.” If I’m blasting off with my Granite Galactic pale ale rocket, I know exactly where I should be in Toronto to properly rock it.
Don’t wait up. It’s countdown to blast off, and I’m strapped in with my pint of Galactic pale ale from Granite Brewery, ready to rock it through a night at Cherry Cola’s.
3… 2… 1…
(Note: Cherry Cola’s does not serve Granite’s “Galactic” pale ale, although perhaps making this connection here will encourage them to add it to their menu…)
Cherry Cola’s
On May 7th, 2010, Cherish Stevenson opened the doors to her new burlesque and live music night club, specializing in decadent cocktails. Along with her, Eagles Of Death Metal performed on opening night, kicking off a history of a Toronto night club that the city and its visitors cannot get enough of.
After 6 years of making “Cherry’s” (the club’s affectionate nickname) a quintessential venue for any young musical act to perform in in Toronto, Cherish decided to sell a majority stake to Alex Vincenzi and Mark Murphy, giving the club expert aid in continuing its assent up the live venue ladder: Alex Vincenzi is the former manager of the Phoenix, a prominent venue in the city since the 1990’s.
While Cherish has stepped aside from the pressure of full ownership, that does not mean she has left her baby entirely. Not only does she remain a part-owner, but you can also find Cherish behind the bar most nights, ready with her pinup smile to greet and make you one heck of a cocktail.
And Cherish isn’t the only incredible thing going on inside Cherry Cola’s: the long, narrow space is covered in red wallpaper, plush, red velvet furniture, antique chandeliers and light fixtures – all designed by Cherish herself. Bands, such as Ill Scarlett, Rival Sons, and Courage My Love, rock the main stage, while burlesque dancers can be found dancing within an illuminated wall recess. “Sinful Sundays” stands as burlesque night, the longest running night of its kind in the city.
If you’re looking for the freshest, most underground rock ‘n roll music in Toronto – or from far and wide – Cherry Cola’s is the place to be in Toronto.
Pairingwith… Granite Brewery’s “Dark Side” Black IPA
The “Dark Side” from Granite Brewery is a black IPA, available during the winter season from the brewpub. Being tempted to the dark side is a situation that might require a bit of protection: like Odysseus, I aim to get the most out of a situation while keeping me safe from risk, so, in order to enjoy this beer to its fullest, and without it drawing me into the dark side, pairing it with some protection from Order 416 was certainly a wise match.
Pouring a deep, chocolate brown with a delicious tan head, the Dark Side provides a wonderful experience with a black IPA. It starts out like most other black IPAs, with aromas of burnt coffee and chocolate, but the taste is something that is more unique to the style – and definitely in a good way. Burnt malts, featuring predominantly coffee and cola tastes, lead the charge, and then slowly ease into earthy hop bitterness with a touch of citrus, leaving a pleasant, medium-bitter linger that tempts you for many repeated sips.
It’s difficult to resist the Dark Side, especially when it leaves such a nice linger in your mouth – and I don’t want to not have another sip! Thankfully, as Kylo Ren arrives with a Sith Inquisitor to ensure my allegiance to the dark side of the Force, Quinlan Vos, a true Jedi survivor, intervenes to allow me the proper Odysseus experience.
Order 416 is a group of local Star Wars cosplayers who have been climbing the ranks of cosplay groups, most recently being invited as featured exhibitors at the Star Wars Celebration in Chicago last year, and being the focus of a recent article in the Washington Post. The Force is certainly strong with Order 416.
Before cracking your can of Dark Side IPA from Granite Brewery, check in with Order 416 to be sure they have your back: the Dark Side is so easily appealing, it really won’t take much for you to slip onto the wrong side of the Force.
Order 416
Order 416 is a Toronto based Star Wars fan club that was founded in 2015 by Dan Johnson and Reno Russel. Initially a smaller group of friends supporting each other’s passion for Stars Wars, the club has grown substantially since its inception, pulling cosplayers from across the city into a world of Star Wars dress-up events, photo shoots, parties, and appearances.
Of particular interest is Kareem Dharsee (as Quinlan Vos in the pairing photos) who has found a deep connection to the Muslim philosophy often overlooked in the Star Wars universe. He typically ‘plays’ those characters that speak deeply to his own philosophy, and his take on this connection was briefly explored in a recent article in SYFY that shines light on the inherent diversity of cosplay.
Order 416 itself was invited as a featured exhibitor in last year’s Stars Wars Celebration of Chicago, as well as being panelists at the 2019 New York Commicon. Their presence at such events is increasing exponentially, as more and more cosplayers uncover the community that is Order 416 and their deep, philosophical understanding of the Star Wars universe.
Pairingwith… Granite Brewery’s “Ringwood” Blonde Ale
The “Ringwood” blonde ale from Granite Brewery says many things about the brewery, including making clear the passion the brewers have for their craft. It therefore makes a wonderful pairing with a wood ring my good friend (and frequent PairingwithBeer photographer), Kris Delchev, made to give to his partner for Valentine’s Day next week (just don’t say anything to her yet, please!).
Pouring a clear, straw-golden colour with a thick, quickly dissipating head, the Ringwood brings an exciting waft of honey, berries, and yeast to perk your mouth up for its first sip. Named after the British yeast strain the brewery bases most of it recipes from, and requires a more rare, open fermentation system, this brew does a wonderful job of showcasing the strength of this yeast type. With well-balanced, subtle tastes of bread, citrus, and soft floral, the Ringwood comes to an excellent dry finish and provides a unique rendition of the blonde ale style.
Of course, pairing a beer named after a yeast strain can come with some serious challenges for me, but luckily this yeast name was easier to work with than most others. With Granite now almost 30 years old, the Ringwood stands as a brew that speaks to their passion for their craft, one that utilizes a strain of yeast that is incredibly uncommon in North America – and they certainly like it that way.
Similarly, Kris Delchev put in some out-of-character work to create a wood ring for his partner who is allergic to most metals. Both take a step outside the box to create something quite unique, and while the ring is (admittedly) not exactly my style (nor was it made to be!), I’ll proudly strut something I know a lot of passion, creativity, and hard work went into producing – like both of these beautiful products.
Forget about the usual – we’re rockin’ a wood ring while crushing a Ringwood, and we feel perfectly original for doing so: love is in the air, so put a ring on it.
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