The newest thing…
At a high-top table at the far end of the brewpub, I sat across from John Jenkinson, head brewer at Folly Brewing. I asked him what he thought a ‘craft beer lifestyle’ might be.
“There’s this consumer aspect where people always want to try new things,” John told me. “There’s different threads of tension that pull in all sorts of different directions: one is a push to try new things, and so breweries want to have all these innovative new styles – people don’t want to buy the same thing over and over again – so core brands kind of get left behind to a certain extent because the craft beer drinker wants the newest IPA or the newest sour.
“I don’t think everybody’s like that though. People also just want good quality, and something reliable, which is why I always have Wellington Brewery‘s Helles in my fridge – it’s my go-to.
“And then there’s the hyper-locality, trying to support the people around you. Knowing where the money I spent is going. That may be the most romantic, and I like that aspect the most – keeping the dollar in the community… And I see that more and more as more breweries continue to pop up: there’s a greater and greater push towards that locality, and a stronger sense of community because of it.”
…from your local
Opening in the fall of 2015, Folly Brewing is located on College St, just east of Dovercourt Rd. I always think of Erasmus’ Praise of Folly whenever this brewery comes to mind, and while I am unsure as to whether the owners had this in their own minds when they came to name their brewery, my thinking has not far off. Opening a brewery, for the team of 5 owners that did open Folly Brewing, was for them a “foolish” leap of faith.
One might be foolish to get into something they are not fully qualified to do (not that the Folly team wasn’t qualified – that’s not my point), but I would also like to argue that you are foolish to not take such a leap of faith: one needs to dive into the deep end in order to properly learn how to swim, in other words.
Folly Brewing knows how to swim.
Swimming with yeast
Folly Brewing has created their own niche within the craft beer market. Contrary to the usual, where brewers concoct recipes with malts and hops as their backbone, Folly creates recipes that begin with the yeast.
It’s more typical for breweries to work with one yeast strain, and then make a variety of beers with it, but Folly works with a lot of different yeasts to build their recipes upon. They create a lot of mix-fermentation brews, and their philosophy here has them producing quite unique flavours that are much more difficult to find elsewhere.
Their tiny brewing system that produces small batches that only fill about 7 kegs, makes Folly Brewing beers that much more special.
Into the
Enter through the front door of Folly Brewing, and you are greeted by an open front area that has one large, communal table down the middle of it. A few high-top tables sit in the large front windows. Beers to go lie in wait in a self-serve beer fridge on the west wall that stands beside small shelves featuring Folly t-shirts and other brewery swag.
Head deeper into the space to get to the bar, which transitions into a small kitchen (open on weekends) further down the elongated space. Across from the bar are a number of tables that line the east side of the brewpub. Wonderful light wood ceilings provide a comfortable feel and a brighter space. Various chalkboards and art pieces cover walls. A pinball machine pokes itself out in the middle of this.
At the back of the surprisingly large space sits the production area, neatly tucked away in its own room with glass windows revealing the brewing equipment. Large barrels line the walkway to the production area and bathrooms. The space is clean, sleek, and very comfortable. (See the full Folly Brewing photo gallery here.)
The Folly Brewing community
As John made clear at the outset, a sense of locality is a crucial element of what a ‘craft beer lifestyle’ is, and Folly Brewing makes every attempt to engage the community around them. Heck, they named a beer the “Dovercourt Pale Ale” just to reference their community directly.
Just last week, Folly Brewing released a collaboration beer that they made with Laylow Brewery, a 10 minute walk west on College from Folly (read my article on Laylow Brewery here). Keeping strong relations with other breweries is significant to the team at Folly Brewing, and they often find inspiration for their own brews from their peers.
Folly brewed a special beer they called the “Newcomer” in conjunction with The Newcomer Kitchen at The Depanneur, a not-for-profit organization that provides Syrian woman with access to a commercial kitchen to cook meals and produce an income from doing so. A portion of the sales of every Folly Newcomer bottle went to support The Newcomer Kitchen.
They have held similar fundraisers for projects like Sistering and The 519 as well. These sorts of relationships and strong ties to the local community are precisely what John was referring to when he spoke of a ‘craft beer lifestyle’ wanting to keep the dollars spent within the local community.
The people of Folly Brewing
I had a chance to chat briefly with Andrew Smyka, the general manager of Folly Brewing, and Nicholas Long, John’s assistant brewer.
I laughed when Nicholas said that he got into craft beer because there were “a lot of really bad beers out there.” That’s seeing an opportunity as a brewer, to be sure.
Andrew had a much simpler entry, it seems: it was “game over” after he tried Nickel Brook‘s “Headstock” IPA. He continued forward with that style, claiming his favourite Folly brew is the “Ghoul Wrangler,” another IPA.
I asked Andrew what he might pair that beer with, and he immediately responded, “A new pair of Nike’s, because it means I’m off to a brewery!”
Let me know which one, Andrew, and I’ll meet you there.
Nicholas noted that the “Light Bearer,” a gose, is his favourite Folly beer, which he would pair with the movie The Exorcist: “Because not even a good exorcist could remove Satan from our beer.” His answer made slightly more sense when he revealed to me what he thought a ‘craft beer lifestyle’ might be: “Sacrificing body and soul to the devotion of Satan’s greatest pleasure – good beer.”
I got no beefs with Satan if Nicholas is even remotely correct.
The philosophical brewer
I had a more extended discussion with John Jenkinson, Folly’s head brewer. John completed a PhD in philosophy at the University of Western. While he was studying, he started brewing his own beer at home, and then started helping to run the London Homebrewers Guild.
John became heavily involved in homebrewing and the London beer community, making a lot of friends with both amateur and professional brewers alike. He began entering homebrewing competitions, and then quickly started to place at them, including the 2nd Best in Show prize at Ales (the Ales and Lagers Enthusiasts of Saskatchewan).
Upon completing his PhD in February of 2017, John needed employment, but with few jobs in academia available, he started applying to breweries. Folly Brewing seemed an excellent fit, as they were already focusing on many of the types of beers that John had been homebrewing himself. He then joined Folly Brewing later that year, in October of 2017.
It may have been a leap of faith for the owners of Folly Brewing, but that leap has seemingly landed as a splash. Their team was a fun and friendly group who were excited to talk about and make good beer.
I myself have a similar excitement, and was especially excited to run off with three of Folly Brewing beers for my own fun: pairing them.
Pairingwith… Folly Brewing – “Flemish Cap” Saison
The “Flemish Cap” from Folly Brewing is an Old World saison, offered year round at the brewery. It’s a deliciously suitable pairing with reading Sebastian Junger’s The Perfect Storm.
If you’ve never had a saison before, the Flemish Cap is an excellent introduction. Light-bodied, mildly yeasty, with a spunky carbonation that provides a wonderfully refreshing mouthfeel and partners well with the grass, lemon and muted spice flavours of the beer, the beer is deliciously dry and very enjoyable. This is well-rounded and incredibly approachable.
It’s unlike the Flemish Cap was on Hallowe’en in 1991. The Flemish Cap is a body of shallow waters in the north Atlantic, off the coast of Newfoundland. Over Hallowe’en of 1991, two storm fronts collided in the area creating a sudden storm of gargantuan proportions. This is where the Andrea Gail, a trawling boat, found itself in the middle of during a six week fishing expedition. The true story was turned into this book by Sebastian Junger only a few years later, and then a George Clooney and Mark Wahlberg film a few years after that. This book is an excellent read, especially on a stormy night.
What works best with this pairing is the contrast between the beverage and the story on the pages of the book. Heavy and intense, the book smacks you in the face with every turn of the page. Light, friendly and refreshing, the beer is unlike a vicious storm, and more like a perfect mist cooling you in the July sun. While the name of the beer may hint towards the book, it’s really the opposition between the gentle beer and the vicious storm of the book that play to make both experiences even better.
Sit by a window, protected from a storm; open Junger’s The Perfect Storm, and, as you enter the pages of the book, crack your bottle of Flemish Cap from Folly Brewing and start sipping: you’ll remain comfortable in your chair, but your senses will be dancing in multiple directions.
Sebastian Junger’s “The Perfect Storm”
Sebastian Junger is a New York Times best-selling author, journalist, ABC News special correspondent, and contributing editor for Vanity Fair Magazine. His 1997 nonfiction book, The Perfect Storm, tells the story of the crew of fishing trawler, the Andrea Gail, who become caught in a storm in the Atlantic ocean in 1991. A film version of the book was released in 2000, and was directed by Wolfgang Peterson, starring George Clooney and Mark Wahlberg.
The crew of the Andrea Gail sailed out of Gloucester, Massachusetts, and found itself in what today is known as the worst storm in history – the “perfect storm.” The storm itself develops when two separate storms, one coming from high pressure systems over the Great Lakes mixing with winds over the Atlantic and the other being Hurricane Grace, from the Caribbean, collide about 900 kilometers from the east coast of North America.
The story we witness in the book is a gripping account of the danger and struggles the crew onboard the Andrea Gail face. Juxtaposed with the onboard story, the reader bounces back and forth from the sea to land, experiencing the anxiousness of the crew’s families waiting for news at home, and the stress of the rescue teams that work frantically towards saving the crew. It tells the story of the sublimity and power of nature.
Sebastian Junger has now authored five books, also including Tribe, War, A Death in Belmont, and Fire. He has directed four documentary films, including Restrepo, which won the Grand Jury Prize at Sundance Film Festival and was nominated for an Academy Award.
Pairingwith… Folly Brewing – “Rhizome” Farmhouse Ale
The “Rhizome” farmhouse ale from Folly Brewing is a seasonal offering, currently available at the brewpub. The beer is perfect to be pairing with my first post to feature another incredible social media beer personality, Nicole Czorny from @PlantsAndBeers (give her a follow!), here with her ZZ Plant. Nicole’s the plant-pairing expert, advising all of us on fantastic craft beer and tips for how to care for plants, so I’m more than happy to have her take this one over…
From floral and citrusy hops to barley, foraged spruce tips and taprooms bursting with flora, beers and plants are a perfect pairing and Ontario’s growing craft beer scene is embracing the botanical world in a big way.
In Folly Brewing’s latest iteration of their Rhizome Farmhouse Ale, German Hallertau Mittelfrüh and Hersbrucker hops add subtle floral and woody flavours. It’s also the first batch to be naturally carbonated, allowing the yeast blend to give notes of zesty lemon and lime with fresh strawberry and a touch of hay.
Similar to the multiple versions of this delightful beer, a Rhizome is a plant stem that grows multiple new roots and shoots. The rhizomes stretch and grow horizontally underground, sending out new growth upward, much like the natural carbonation of this beer. Hops, a beer-lover’s favourite plant, grow from rhizomes, and some rhizomes, such as ginger and turmeric, are even edible.
Naturally this beer pairs perfectly with a plant that has rhizomes, and the easy-to-care for ZZ Plant is the perfect pick. Tolerant of low light conditions and the occasional skipped watering, the ZZ Plant (Zamioculcas Zamiifolia) is great for first-time plant parents or homes and offices (and breweries) that don’t get a lot of sunlight.
Watering: let soil dry out before watering
Sunlight: low to bright, indirect light
Glassware: tulip
Nicole Czorny (@PlantsAndBeers)
Nicole Czorny is a plant and craft beer lover who pairs beer with plants on her Instagram account, @PlantsandBeers. From an early age, Nicole has been a lover of plants, helping out in her neighbour’s garden as a child, and then working at a plant shop to help support her degree in university. What she loves most is the ability to bring nature indoors, decorating interiors with the vibrancy and life of greenery.
Craft beer became a love later in life, which should not come as a surprise: 8 year olds can kick it in the garden, but pounding beer at 8 is not much of a thing (or it certainly shouldn’t be). Nicole has always had an affinity for her local community. She shops, eats, and drinks local as much as she can, and craft beer is one significant thread that helps sew local communities together, so being drawn towards it was an obvious move for Nicole.
Of course, craft beer also tastes delicious, so why wouldn’t Nicole become captivated by the endless flavours that craft beer has to offer?!
Taking these two loves, Nicole began an Instagram account that would bring them together in unique ways. Scrolling through her posts will reveal insight into tasty brews and where to get them, along with tips and tricks for being a great “plant parent.”
Recently, Nicole expanded her project, and has begun offering workshops at breweries that have participants learn to arrange creative plant arrangements, often with beer accessories involved. Her next workshop is being held on Thursday, June 27th at Black Lab Brewing (read about my visit to Black Lab here), where Nicole will lead the group in up-cycling beer bottles and glassware into incredible planters.
In Nicole’s words, “I want people to leave my workshops with something they are proud to have made, and as more confident plant parents.” Follow Nicole on Instagram for updates on workshops and tips for where to find great craft beer and how to care for our beautiful, green friends.
Pairingwith… Folly Brewing – “Foresight” IPA
The “Foresight” New England-style IPA from Folly Brewing is a new offering from the brewery that also makes for an apt pairing with a game of chess.
Chess is a game that requires a lot of foresight. You are at war with an opponent, and in order to beat them, you really need to be able to see what is happening 2, 3, 7, 18 moves ahead – the more foresight you have, in other words, the better your odds to take your opponent’s king.
A game of strategy and intelligence, the Foresight IPA plays the fantastic role of giving yourself an excuse to take an extra few moments before making your next move: every whiff and sip of this beer is sure to distract your senses for just the right amount of time to notice that moving your queen that way will in fact, over here, leave your knight open to an attack. Thank the lord (or, better, Folly Brewing) for the beer in your hand.
A huge, fluffy aroma of tropical fruits arise from a pint of Foresight. Following the nose, tastes of pineapple, stone fruits, and a subtle tart balance the medium bitterness of the deep orange-coloured beer with a thick, fluffy head. A very comfortable, mild bitter finish lingers just long enough to tease you into your next gulp. Juicy and refreshing with a friendly bite, this beer is a quaffable beverage that encourages a few games of chess – at least, as long as the games are an excuse to crack the next bottle.
Set up the board; pour a pint from Folly Brewing; make a move, but make sure the move is speaking to your next 6 moves: you ain’t getting anywhere without Foresight.
I like that you said that the best way to make beer is to do it with one yeast strain. I always like to enjoy a good taste in a beer, especially on a warm hot day. Thank you for giving me a tip to recognize a good brew beer.
Fantastic, Ron – glad to supply a little extra direction: cheers!