Black Lab Brewing Inc.

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Able to let loose…

In a packed (with humans and dogs alike) tap room on a Saturday afternoon, I sat at a high top table with Billy Madden, co-owner of Black Lab Brewing Inc. I asked him what he thought a ‘craft beer lifestyle’ might be.

“It’s hard to describe a feeling,” he began. “It’s hard-working, yet easy-going – like a 1940’s mentality or something. It’s charitable and focuses on local, while being artistic and creative. The culture is one that also a strives for high quality, but without being snobby.”

He returned to how he began: “I guess that craft beer feeling is really a sense of inclusion, of wanting to share the experience with others. And with others, I think a craft beer lifestyle is one that is able to let loose and enjoy life.”

…and enjoy life

Opening on October 13, 2018, and located in the south east end of Leslieville, Black Lab Brewing has been a happy addition to the craft beer scene in Toronto, and has quickly established itself as one of those breweries to keep an eye on.

Led by its mascot, Snoopy, Billy and his wife, Anne’s 9 year old black labrador, the brewery is a spot that many enjoy a pint in while their dogs hangout by their side. Indeed, on the Saturday I visited, Black Lab was hosting a doggie birthday party with around 25 dogs ruling the space. The dogs create quite the friendly, happy environment (after you wind your way through a maze of leashes, of course).

While this is certainly the dog brewery, Billy was clear to insist that he doesn’t want to be known for that: “It’s a gimmick,” he stated. “I love dogs, and I obviously love my dog, Snoopy, but I don’t want Black Lab Brewing to be known as ‘the dog brewery:’ I want it to be known as a place that produces excellent beer – in fact, I want it to be known as the place that produces the best beer.”

Snoopy’s brewery

While quality beer is certainly the goal at Black Lab, one still enjoys being greeted by Snoopy at the front entrance. Entering first into the brewery’s bottle shop, Snoopy is often found behind the bottle and swag shop front counter, sometimes perched up, with his front paws resting on the counter, head popped up, looking polite and stoic.

Passing through the bottle shop and down three steps into the tap room, I find a large, minimalist tap room with white walls. A black and white mural, celebrating the brewery, covers one east wall. Clever sayings are painted in black in various other places: “Water is drank by the four-legged beast: man prefers it with hops, malts, and yeast.”

A long bar lines the east side, in front of the walk-in keg fridge. Chic wooden tables and benches add an air of class to the otherwise simple environment. It’s cozy and inviting, and lacks any sense of snobbery. The basic decor is the perfect contrast to the often chaotic floor space that sees many of Snoopy’s friends hanging around. It’s an easy place to let loose and enjoy life.

But it’s about the beer

It might be Snoopy’s brewery, but it’s Connor Deuchars‘ beer. Billy was clear to tell me that while he had spent some time home-brewing himself, in years leading up to the Black Lab launch, he knows that his role is not to brew. Connor was originally brewing at Louis Cifer Brew Works on the Danforth before he got the opportunity to join the Black Lab team, and when Billy hired him, he let Connor know that the beer is up to him – he has final say.

The beer comes first at Black Lab. Not only do Billy and Anne insist on Connor being in complete control over the beer, they also insist that their staff are trained in beer knowledge. The knowledge is important for the experience. The staff is trained so that they are able to speak to their guests with proper beer terminology, and able to make suggestions that the guests will appreciate and enjoy. Beer will always come first at this brewery.

The Black Lab community

Black Lab Brewing’s arrival on the craft beer scene has been a quick success. The main reason for this, I believe, is the sense of community that the brewery champions. The dog-friendly spot has garnered the eyes of almost every beer and dog-loving person on the east side of the city, but if the beer was no good and the atmosphere not friendly, then those eyes would have drifted quickly away. They haven’t.

The sense of community Black Lab promotes is one that sees them working with neighbours on all sorts of projects. Partnering with Stray Paws from Greece this past January had the brewery host the non-profit dog rescuing organization for a fundraiser. They then hosted the Canine Haven Rescue for a “Slobbering Kissing Booth Fundraiser” a few days after Valentine’s.

Their biggest charity event though was for the Toronto Humane Society, where they hosted a dog-walking fundraiser, which raised around $5K for the organization that works to promote the proper care and protection of animals.

Beyond charities, Black Lab like to work with the locals whenever they can. Tom&Sawyer, a pet meal shop across the back alley from Black Lab repurposes Black Lab’s spent grain, turning them into nutritional dog treats. They also partnered with the T-Shirt Guys, working in the next neighbourhood over, in Riverside, for the Black Lab t-shirts the brewery sells onsite. It’s all about growing the Black Lab family.

The people of Black Lab Brewing

One of the friendliest groups of staff work at Black Lab; from ownership through bar staff and brewer, they are all incredibly welcoming and accommodating. Anne, Billy’s partner in life and this venture, had fun with my photographer, getting various dogs, especially Snoopy, to model for pictures, but her constant smile is what really sets the tone in the brewery.

This smile finds a mirror in Jeff Kelly, the tap room manager. Jeff is more than ready for a friendly chat at almost any moment, and he can charm you with his sense of humour and light-heartedness. When I asked him about how he got into craft beer, his answer was straightforward and to the point (and 100% excellent reasoning): “Deliciousness.” This is the sort of fun Jeff can bring to any situation it seems.

I tried to get a bit more serious with Jeff, requesting he provide me with his notion of what a ‘craft beer lifestyle’ might be: “A chilled-out, yet very professional industry/community that supports its own and is very open to new ideas and change.” I loved this last point – it’s the first time anyone has responded with something like that, and it’s a great characterization of the craft beer world and lifestyle.

From rehab to beer

I spent much more time with Billy, who filled me in on all things Black Lab Brewing. Billy is a former brain injury rehab specialist, who dealt with patients that had mostly been in car accidents. Our conversation took a sobering tone at this point, but I wanted to know where Billy had come from. While his patients were dealing with obvious trauma, the specialists, like Billy, experience the trauma secondhand, by proxy, and on a daily basis. “You can burn out easily,” Billy explained.

Billy got into beer because he used it as a coping mechanism for the pressure and stress he felt at his job. Having a pint after work at the local brewery allowed him to step away from his work and clear his head while chatting with other patrons at the brewery about beer. The more he spoke with others, the more his interested in beer grew.

He spoke so much to them about it, that eventually some of them started telling him that he should brew beer himself, and encouraged him to do so. Eric Portelence, formerly at Halo Brewery, was a big resource to Billy, coaching and encouraging Billy to learn how to brew, and then how to really get a brewery going.

Now that Billy, Anne and Snoopy have made that happen and brought us Black Lab Brewing, we’re all anticipating Connor’s next brew. When it’s ready, we also don’t have to leave our dogs outside when we come in to drink it.

But then, of course, I want to leave! No, I don’t really want to leave, but I do like to take off to try to pair some beers, and the team at Black Lab was happy to send me on my way with three of their’s for some enjoyment of my own.

Pairingwith… Black Lab Brewing Company’s “Bean There, Dog That” Jelly Bean Sour

The “Bean There, Dog That” jelly bean sour from Black Lab Brewing Company was brewed with Easter in mind, and is a collaboration beer with Craft Culture Consulting (C3). C3 put together a team, which included myself and some other fantastic beer aficionados for the brew day. I personally separated the black jelly beans out and tossed a big handful of the colourful ones into the brew after mashing out – along with a bunch of other stuff I was directed to do by head brewer and all round solid dude, Connor Deuchars. The brew is a one-off, available for a limited time.

More importantly than any of that though, the beer was made with dogs and pets in mind: $1 from every bottle of this delicious beer goes to support Hanks Haven, a dog sanctuary that looks to rescue, rehabilitate and re-home dogs and pets that are homeless and no longer receive care. In other words, head down to the brewery to grab some of these special beers to support this fantastic cause, or head directly to hankshaven.ca to donate.

My job was done for me with this beer: it’s obviously a perfect pairing with June and Johnny, two dogs rescued by Hank’s Haven, and fostered by Toni Dorich and David Owler last October here in Toronto. Without a Hank’s Haven and people like Toni and David, one is a bit scared to think of where June and Johnny would be today.

Thankfully, they are happy and lively, living a wonderful life with their new older brother, Nico (Toni and David’s other dog), bouncing around the house and wagging their tails at excellent paces. Indeed, with their new life, they are like most happy, youthful dogs: living like they’re hopped up on jelly beans!

And the Bean There, Dog That is the sort of beer they can get their noses into for sure. A medium tart, big, sweet fruity, jelly bean flavour and low, 4% ABV, this beer is perfect for drinking in the spring over Easter long weekend, playing fetch with your dogs. This is candy for the adults – the dogs will sniff out the hidden chocolate eggs while you’re chillin’ in the sun with your deep pink-coloured beer.

As we celebrate family and friends this weekend, this beer reminds us of how important all that is: we all need family and friends, and no one, including animals, should be left out of such an equation. Raise your Black Lab and C3 jelly bean sour up in the air to organizations like Hank’s Haven and people like Toni and David for rescuing friends that need some help: hoppy Easter, y’all!

Hank’s Haven

Hank’s Haven is dog sanctuary that was founded by Nicole Tryon and Julie Howell. Both ladies met while volunteering at a dog rescue about 2 years ago. What they found while working there were practices they could not accept: the place was supposed to be a dog rescue, not a place where dogs were treated as a burden.

Hank was in fact a Bull Terrier that was “rescued” there, but the rescue didn’t last long as the so-called “rescue” determined that there was simply no time nor space for Hank. Hank was sadly euthanized. Nicole and Julie had come to know Hank during his short stay at the rescue, and his experience deeply sadden and angered them. So much so that they didn’t simply leave that rescue, they went much further: Hank’s story spurred them to take matters into their own hands, and create their own rescue.

The mission of Hank’s Haven is to care for those dogs that cannot find caring; the ones that have been left in the cold. As Nicole puts it, “My true passion is not just saving dogs, it’s saving the ones that no-one else wants. The broken ones. The ones that people have forgotten about.”

While Nicole works as a hairstylist for much of the day, her and Julie spend every ounce of extra energy on working to save homeless dogs. While they have spent much time finding homes for rescued dogs, they also use their own homes as sanctuaries for others.

They took in their first dog, Max, a bulldog, last year. After Max broke his back, he was left in a crate to die. Nicole and Julie got wind, and rescued the now paralyzed Max, who now lives happily under the ladies’ care.

In January, they added Ernie to their family. At 5lbs and barely alive, Ernie had “swimmer syndrome” (a condition where a lack of muscle in the rear limbs prevents the dog from standing properly), a result of horrific backyard breeding. Nicole and Julie sent Ernie to the US for rehab, where he has now made a healthy recovery, but not without deformities and an inability to walk properly. Ernie goes for the first of three surgeries on May 6th, to amputate his right front foot – returning later for more surgeries for attempts at fixing his back legs. While life has not been easy for Ernie, he is now a happy 6 month old pup at a healthy 24lbs.

This is all the result of Nicole and Julie’s dedication to rescuing animals that others would prefer to “throw back.” Their passion for rescuing animals is intensely admirable, and they are proud to do so in the name of Hank, a dog who’s name will now live on through the dogs that Hank’s Haven is able to save.

Please donate to Nicole and Julie’s cause. All dogs – all animals – deserve a proper life, and without people like Nicole and Julie, many more would not be given such a chance. Please, head here now: donate to Hank’s Haven.

Pairingwith… Black Lab Brewing Company’s “Sitting Pretty” APA

The “Sitting Pretty” American pale ale from Black Lab Brewing Company is one of their flagship beers, available year round.

It’s also an excellent pairing with these dog treats from the Tom&Sawyer bakery around the corner from the brewery. These dog treats were made with the spent grain from Black Lab brews, and they’re so good that they are in fact tasty treats for humans as well as dogs.

The first trick that most dogs learn, including Black Lab’s mascot, Snoopy, is how to sit (this is indeed how this beer got its name) – and treats are typically the best way to get a dog to learn new tricks. Here, I’m sitting pretty with Dash, a half golden retriever, half lab that Alyssa Sabino was happy to have featured in this post with me: thanks Alyssa and Dash!

The wonderfully hazy, mild bitter beer is a delicious way to hang with your dog while teaching him or her new tricks. With it’s subtle citrus and tropical fruit flavours that are balanced by a biscuity malt backbone, this is a sure complement to the Tom&Sawyer dog biscuits. A touch of rye and dry finish round out the experience of the Black Lab brew.

While Dash was a wonderful model, he was so (I’m fairly certain) only for the Tom&Sawyer treats. Similarly, I can only exercise my own modelling skills with a beer nearby for positive reinforcement. Thank god I had the Sitting Pretty with me – without it, I’d most likely be sitting ugly – and without the Tom&Sawyer biscuits, I would probably be chasing Dash around the room. We both work for treats, in other words.

Get out the bottle; bring out the biscuits – now that it’s almost May, we’re all ready to be sitting pretty.

Tom & Sawyer

Tom&Sawyer is a pet meal shop located at 1247 Queen St. East in Leslieville, Toronto. Founded in 2016 by co-owners Kristin Matthews and Peter Zakarow, the real boss at Tom&Sawyer, according to Kristin and Peter, is of course their 5 year old Yorkiepoo, Sawyer.

When Kristin and Peter first got Sawyer home, they battled to get him to eat the various brands of kibble they purchased in hopes the pup would eat. Instead of wondering what was wrong with Sawyer though, they looked at the food. And they were right about where the problem lay: what they found was a smelly bag of kibble made from ingredients that were of the sort that had Kristin “grossed out.”

They then went further with their investigation, and started researching the pet food industry, only to reach the decision that Sawyer would not be eating any kibble again. Tired of a unregulated pet food industry, Kristin and Peter spoke with their vet about preparing pet foods, and then set out on their own mission to create pet foods that were both tasty and healthy for animals.

With that mission in mind, Kristin and Peter assembled a team of animal health and nutrition experts, as well as trained chefs, to create pet food recipes and meals that met Kristin and Peter’s health standards. Tom&Sawyer was born.

As they make clear, “Every recipe our chefs make at Tom&Sawyer is one that we proudly feed Sawyer. We would not cut any corners when it comes to his health and well-being so this is our quality promise to you and your pet.”

A large, bright shop with an open kitchen, Tom&Sawyer is a small oasis for pets. This includes a doggy bar, or, as they like to call it, a “Tasting Bar-K” for sampling the Tom&Sawyer treats and meals. The shop also offers barista-made espresso beverages (for their human customers, of course), and is a big supporter of the pet industry, hosting fundraisers for local dog rescues in its large and wonderful space.

The pet meals and treats are in fact so good and so healthy that they are fit for human consumption – but don’t eat too much of your pet’s food, please! You can find Tom&Sawyer treats and meals for your pet (or yourself) at their shop in Leslieville, or ordered from their website.

Pairingwith… Black Lab Brewing Company’s “Cornerstone” Black Lager

The “Cornerstone” black lager from Black Lab Brewing company is, as the name might suggest, the brewery’s cornerstone beer. The beer was in fact named after Cornerstone Estate Winery, where Black Lab Brewing owners, Billy and Anne, adopted their black lab and brewery boss, Snoopy.

The beer is an apt pairing with George Leslie, a gardener who’s nurseries built in 1845 spurred the development of the neighbourhood now named after him, Leslieville. George Leslie was the cornerstone of the neighbourhood that Black Lab Brewing now calls home. (Also, I really didn’t want to have another dog pairing – 2 were great and on brand, but 3 is just overkill, I think… Besides, dogs are difficult models…)

The German schwarzbier is a delicious surprise as a cornerstone: we’re used to lagers, blonde ales, pale ales and IPAs as more typical flagships, but this makes sense, given the brewery’s branding strategy – Black Lab needed a black beer. This black lager is a wonderful rendition of the style, with its malt-forwardness providing hints of sweet chocolate, a touch of tart and then balanced wonderfully by a dry, subtle bitterness. With it’s comfortable flavours and light body, this goes down very easily.

Where I stand in this pairing shot is on the same land that George Leslie’s nursery once was. Now Leslie Grove Park, the site is dedicated to the man who began the development of area. Known for his gardening skills and his nursery that was once the largest in Canada at 150 acres, Leslie built the cornerstone of the neighbourhood and groomed land that Snoopy or any dog would surely find appealing.

Go for a run around Cornerstone Estate with Snoopy; go for a run around Leslie Grove, where George Leslie built the cornerstone of Leslieville; and, at the end of your run(s), down a refreshing Cornerstone Black Lager to quench your thirst: it’s exactly what you’ll need.

George Leslie

In 1845, George Leslie built the Toronto Nurseries and established what would become the largest nursery in Canada, at 150 acres. Producing everything from flowers through shrubs and trees, Leslie’s crops were planted in such places as Mount Pleasant Cemetery and Allan Gardens – both places now known for their beautiful greenery.

Around his nurseries developed what would become Leslieville. Leslie established the first post office in the neighbourhood in his general store on the edge of the nursery’s lot, and a train station was added to the neighbourhood around the same time. In 1853, Leslie was appointed a magistrate.

Hailing originally from Scotland, his family moved to the west end of Toronto, Streetsville (now Mississauga) in 1824. Ten year’s later, Leslie was one of the founders of the Toronto Horticultural Society.

Leslie passed in 1893, and handed the nursery down to his children. They, in turn, divided the land into lots, which most would eventually be turned into housing. Leslie Grove stands as the remaining area of the original Toronto Nurseries that George Leslie built.

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See you next week when I’m Pairingwith… Longslice Brewery!!

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Quick Links

• FULL BLACK LAB BREWING COMPANY PHOTO GALLERY
• PAIRING OUTTAKES
• Black Lab Brewing Company’s WEBSITE
• Hank’s Haven
• Tom & Sawyer