Supporting local…
Mike Gurr, the VP of operations at Kensington Brewing company, sat across from me at a two-top table in the brewery’s tap room. I asked him what he though a “craft beer lifestyle” might be. “It’s a lifestyle that’s centred around supporting local,” he began.
“But it’s not necessarily just beer – I think it’s really a craft lifestyle. It’s more than beer. Individualism is important; being adventurous and curious with one’s taste, of course, but I think a big part of such a lifestyle is rooting for the underdog – and that doesn’t have to be a brewery.”
…and rooting for the underdog
Originally getting their start in 2011, Kensington Brewing Company has gone through some trials and tribulations to be where they are today. The team started by Brock Shepherd began producing beer, in 2012, out of the back of Brock’s restaurant in Kensington, “the Burger Bar.”
The restaurant has now been reimagined by Michael Duggan (owner of Duggan’s Brewery in Parkdale) as “Beer2Beer,” a beer and burgers bar that features a small brewery on premises (the same brewing system Kensington Brewing got their start on).
Brock has moved on from Kensington Brewing, as has most of the original team: Mike Gurr is the only one from that original team remaining. It took more than four years for them to find a location and obtain the necessary permits and licenses to operate in the historic Kensington area (which resulted in the brewery’s hiatus from the game in the meantime) – but now that they’re here, they’re ready to make their own Kensington history.
Tight spaces
Located at the north end of the Market, next door to popular craft beer bar, Trinity Commons, Kensington Brewing Company is a long, narrow space that utilizes every inch as best it can. This is the way the entire neighbourhood operates – in tight spaces – and the brewery may be a new paradigm for this, wedging its production into spaces one might not have thought a brewery could exist.
But that doesn’t mean it feels tight. The narrow tap room has plenty of space to sit or stand, with a full bar area and seating for around 30 guests. Upon my arrival, I passed by what was a half finish patio (I returned the following week to see the patio fully constructed – licensing is the only thing the patio now waits for), to enter the more modern-looking building within the infamously Victorian home populated Kensington area.
Peaking up from below
A large black and white mural of the Kensington neighbourhood (only the Kensington Brewing Company’s building appears in its brand’s baby blue colour) crosses the south wall and leads you from the bottle shop purchasing area into the seating area.
A water station, neatly set up with trendy wooden milk crates that read “Kensington Market” on their sides, extends the bar into a ledge on the west side of the bar. Board games sit in wait across from there. Aging barrels frame the north end of a railing that looks down towards the production area in the basement. Fermentation tanks peak their heads out over this railing, announcing their presence. A window at the very east end provides a glimpse at the brewhouse.
I absolutely love this: the fermentation tanks pop up from the basement, retreating from their usual towering presence to a less imposing position with a comfortable view of their tops only. Installing these tanks was a project and a half for the brewery (entire walls needed to be taken down in order to get the tanks inside), but, beyond them producing beer of course, the sight of their final resting place is awesome. (See the full Kensington Brewing Company photo gallery here.)
A part of the Market
Kensington Brewing Company, as its name might suggest, is proud to be a part of the eclectic neighbourhood in which it resides. Their branding follows suit and focuses on the Kensington neighbourhood. Images of market awnings crown the top of their cans. They included an image of a milk crate as part of their logo, as milk crates are typical items used by many of those in the market. The inspiration for their brews, in fact, comes from the market: many of their beers are made in reference to the myriad offerings of food around the marketplace, whether that’s the “Watermelon Wheat” or their original, flagship beer, the “Fisheye IPA.”
But more importantly than making reference to the market in their branding is their actual relationship with Kensington. Across the street resides St. Steven’s Community House, a social service agency that works “to identify, prevent and alleviate social and economic inequality.” When Kensington Brewing Company opened the doors to its brewery on August 25, 2017, they partnered with St Steven’s House for its launch, with sales of t-shirts, especially designed by local artists for the launch, donated to the hard-working agency across the street. And more events like these are in the works.
A typical problem for many breweries is how to feed their guests, as most breweries do not have their own kitchen. The problem is the same for Kensington Brewing, except they have an advantage: they reside in Kensington Market!
The brewery is currently working on expanding its snack menu, and this of course will include offerings from many of their neighbours. Sanigan’s, a butcher shop around the corner on Baldwin St., will be supplying some of their cured meats. Hooked, also on Baldwin St., serves up oyster nights at the brewery. The Mad Mexican will be adding some of its fine Mexican fair, as well. And other collaborations are still being confirmed.
The People of Kensington Brewing
The day I visited Kensington Brewing was a good day to be around: it was brew day. John Briggs heads up the team ‘behind the curtain,’ and while I got to hang out a bit and watch their process, the team was far too busy mashing-out to have a proper conversation (and I wasn’t about to interrupt the process of brewing precious beer, obviously).
I did get to chat a bit with Jessica Beaver (Jess) who is Kensington Brewing Company’s east end sales rep – and my rep when I was running a cafe/bar in the east end. As I typically do, I had some fun prodding her for wacky, PairingwithBeer-type beer pairings.
Pairingwith… Clueless?!
I asked Jess what her favourite Kensington Brewing beer was, and she responded with the “Qullqa,” a cantaloupe and lemon verbena Leipzig gose (which is no longer in production, but sounds incredible – bring it back!).
“And so what movie would you pair that with then?”
“Clueless, because it takes place in California where the weather is nice all of the time; just like this beer – you crave it all the time. It’s also just so refreshingly crisp and juicy, great on those hot Californian days. It’s also a little sassy: there are flavours you don’t expect, and it has a bite to it… just like Alicia Silverstone does in the movie.”
Exactly the sort of fun and creative response I wanted from Jess.
More serious was her response to my question about what a ‘craft beer lifestyle’ might be: “It’s to be yourself unapologetically; to relax (not take anything too seriously), and to have fun (what’s life if you’re not having fun?!).” Perfect, Jess: I’ll adhere to that lifestyle any day!
The beer blogger
I had a more extended discussion with Mike who filled me in on the history of Kensington Brewing, but also a bit of history on himself. Mike in fact got his start in the craft beer industry when he began home-brewing and then started writing as a beer blogger.
Running the operation Mike does now, coming from his blogging days, inspires me to start fantasizing about my own brewery’s name… *Gulp*
Ok, that was too easy. What a great name for my brewery: GULP.
Oh, I wish!
Mike reached out to Kensington Brewing Company in their early days, to feature them on his blog. He quickly developed a friendship and a love for their beer. He then started working with them when they needed help for events. And then he started doing their social media; then sales, and, finally, even some brewing. Before any party really realized, he was an integral part of the team.
And thank god he was. With the rest of that original team now moved on, Mike is the one constant who, without, we would possibly not have a Kensington Brewing Company today. A great big “kudos” to Mike for that, for sure.
Kudos also to Mike for hooking me up with three Kensington Brewing Company beers, which I of course took off with to have some fun pairing.
Pairingwith… Kensington Brewing Company’s “Watermelon Wheat”
The “Watermelon Wheat” from Kensington Brewing Company is a year round offering from the brewery, but does its best work, of course, in the summer months. It’s an obvious and perfect pairing with Oxford Fruit, a fruit stand just south of the brewery in Kensington Market.
The slightly hazy, pale pink colour of the North American style wheat beer looks almost as good in the sun as a fresh cut watermelon. The beer is light and refreshing, with hints of grass, lemon and leafy hops, rounded out by a clean, subtle watermelon flavour. It’s pleasantly dry finish requests repeated sips, and quenches one’s thirst when drinking in the sun.
A watermelon is one thing, but when you’re standing outside Oxford Fruit, inspecting fresh veggies and fruits, the beer is the perfect complement to the rainbow of colours around you. The bustling market, with its milk crate “decor,” is the sort of space one can enjoy battling over the ripest fruits, especially with a Watermelon Wheat in your hand.
Returning home with fresh fruits and vegetables from Oxford Fruit means you’re about to indulge in a meal of utter freshness. Once again, the Watermelon Wheat will serve you well, paying complement to any veggie skewers you grill on the BBQ or the colourful fruit salad you’re preparing for brunch. While I don’t normally condone fruit garnishes for beer (a real no-no in any brewer’s mind), this delightfully summer beer may add that extra bit of summer sun to your day with a few chunks of fresh watermelon floating in the beer.
Sift through the stand; chop through the green; get to the pink; and down a Watermelon Wheat – here’s to a sunny day in Kensington.
Oxford Fruit
Oxford Fruit is a fresh fruit and vegetable stand in the centre of Kensington Market. Owned by Jeffrey Ng and his wife, Jane Ou, who are in the process of taking the shop over from Jeffrey’s parents who established the shop in 1991.
Hailing from Malaysia, the Ng’s arrived in Canada in 1989. Two years later, they opened Oxford Fruit on the corner of Oxford St and Nassau St. Five years later, in 1996, they moved their shop to a larger location, at 255 Augusta Ave (again on a corner), which they have continued to operate out of now for 23 years.
Walking through the shop reveals incredible colours: ripe red tomatoes, fresh oranges, bananas, watermelons, yellow peppers – every type of produce you can imagine. Complementing the fruit stand, the shop also sells fresh smoothies to go, made from the colourful selection of fruits on display in the shop.
For 28 years, the Ngs have run the shop: today they work on their well-deserved retirement, handing the shop over to Jeffrey and Jane to continue the legacy of one of the best places in Toronto to get fresh fruits and vegetables. Pop by for your groceries; stay for a smoothie.
Pairingwith… Kensington Brewing Company’s “Broken Point” IPA
The “Broken Point” New England-style IPA from Kensington Brewing Company is a recently updated version of their “Breaking Point” double NEIPA they produced last summer. They’ve lowered the ABV from 7% to 5.5% to make it more approachable, while pounding out the juiciness that made last summer’s brew so good.
The juiciness of this beer makes for an excellent pairing with shopping for sunglasses in Kensington Market. If the hazy, yellowy-orange colour of the beer doesn’t suggest the sunshine to you, then the huge tropical fruit aroma will – and this is before you’ve taken a sip. Mango, papaya and grapefruit provide a wonderful balance to the medium-bitter hops that round out the flavour and finish.
Perfect for the sunshine, the Broken Point works well to accompany you on a jaunt through Kensington Market as you try on colourful and flamboyant sunglasses, feeling a part of the hippy-inspired culture that Kensington Market supplies. Each pair of shades provides another laugh in the mirror, and another point at which to break you off from your usual style.
Kensington Market is a spot to let yourself expand your stylistic palette without breaking the bank. It’s also a place that’s so full of life it seems to always be sunny in this hood. With a Broken Point from Kensington Brewing in hand, and a pair a freshly funky sunglasses on face, you’ll surely be ready for your close up in the sun.
Pour a pint; shade your eyes; and bounce around the market like a hippy at a rock show.
Kensington Market
Kensington Market is surely one of the hippest places in Toronto, and has been for decades. A distinctively multicultural neighbourhood, you’ll find Belgian waffles, taco stands, Asian fruit markets, German sausages and a whole host of vintage clothing shops run, typically, by hippy-esque characters – and almost all of it housed in Victorian homes. All this leads to it being one of the most unique and picturesque places in Toronto.
The land was originally purchase by George Taylor Denison in 1815. Near the end of the 19th century, the area became the spot for Irish and Scottish immigrants, and then, at the turn of the century, for Italian and Eastern European Jewish immigrants. It quickly became a densely populated area, and one of the poorest areas in the city.
During the 1920s and 30s, the area was known as “the Jewish Market,” with nearly 60,000 Jews living in and around the area. From the get-go, Kensington Market was the place for imported goods from the vast array of immigrants now calling the area home.
It was in the 1990s that the area really started to show the proper colours we see today. A new influx of, again, immigrants – this time Asian and Spanish – lead to a resurgence of action and revitalization. The market was reborn, featuring even more ethnic foods and goods, and determined to keep its multiculturalism.
Indeed, when Nike tried to move into the area, the corporation was met with a shower of shoes covered in red paint. Thrown into the streets, the shoes were meant to not only protest Nike’s intent to move into the community, but also in protest of the way Nike treats its workers. Nike never made it to Kensington.
The place to try something new, Kensington Market is full of fun, culture, art, music and fashion. It is a National Historic Site of Canada, and a number of policies have been put into place to protect the site and buildings within it. Take a trip to Kensington when downtown: you’ll take at least 3 hours to cover two blocks – and you won’t have much more fun shopping anywhere else.
Pairingwith… Kensington Brewing Company’s “Neu Rodes” Red Ale
The “Neu Rodes” red wine barrel-aged kettle soured red ale (which is a mouthful to say, but says it great) is part of Kensington Brewing Company’s “Barrel-Aged Series.” It won’t be around long, in other words.
What will be around long though is the brewery’s new patio. This I was on while I was pairing a bottle of Neu Rodes with artwork of the Kensington Market neighbourhood by Studio 324. The Toronto-based design studio has collaborated with CUCU Covers (who produce special stickers made for various card types) to create stickers for credit cards, debit cards, gift cards, transit passes, etc. with the artwork from Studio 324’s “My Hood, My Home” collection, which features landmarks and street images of Toronto’s many neighbourhoods.
So there I am paying for a Neu Rodes with my snazzy ode to the neighbourhood on my credit card… Yes, what an excellent pairing. This deep ruby red beer was a perfectly complex complement to the cosmopolitan neighbourhood around me – and in front of me on the card.
Featuring subtly tart cherry, plum and chocolate, with a red wine punchy finish, the Neu Rodes is one sexy beer. The oak character hangs behind all of this to round out the flavour that finds itself gliding across your tongue with its slick, almost red wine-like mouthfeel. And I felt slick with sharp designs by Studio 324 on my card.
Slick, friendly lines don the Kensington Market neighbourhood on the sticker. Familiar landmarks, including the Kensington Brewing Company itself, along with Victorian homes (typical of the neighbourhood) and the Kensington sign that sits high above the neighbourhood, looking down on it from the north end, make the sticker from Studio 324 x CUCU a genuine rendition, and one sexy sticker.
The pairing makes even more sense when you recognize that any barrel-aged product from any brewery is always one that you will probably need to pull your card out to purchase.
Take out your card for the Neu Rodes and you’ll be sure to enjoy the neighbourhood in front of you.
Studio 324
Studio 324 is a business ran by a well-travelled, art-forward family. Founded in January of 2016, the team made up of two brothers and their father set out on a journey to join all three’s strengths into one cohesive project.
An architect (going by the name of “The First Born”), a graphic designer (” The Odd Ball”) and a diplomat and self-taught artist (“The Cool Dad”) come together to create Studio 324. The three of them imagining projects 24 hours a day: 3-24. Amazingly, 324 happens to be the number of their family’s home address as well.
This design studio works to create travel-themed art. From individual landmarks through neighbourhoods and city skylines, the family at Studio 324 is putting their own travels to new work. What makes their art tick though is the fact that they do not stick to any one or two styles. They utilize the extensive variety of culture and artwork they have been exposed to (we now know why they call him “The Cool Dad” – he never stopped travelling, and the boys were along for the ride!) to showcase a multitude of styles to match the multitude of places they display in their work.
And then they take their work and transfer it to a multitude of products: from calendars to coffee mugs through cushions and t-shirts, their designs are transferable to nearly anything.
This would include stickers.
A collaboration with CUCU Covers (another Toronto-based company that has designed special stickers made for use on credit cards, transit passes, gift cards and other types of cards) saw the two companies combine to produce CUCU stickers with the Studio 324 artwork on them. Studio 324’s “My Hood, My Home” collection focuses on the many different Toronto neighbourhoods, while drawing specific attention to the architectural standouts of Toronto neighbourhoods. With CUCU Covers, you can have your own Toronto neighbourhood personalize your card.
The incredible designs that come out of Studio 324 are unique to Toronto, but cover the world over. Everyone of us is proud of where we are from; we become attached to our homes and the neighbourhoods in which they are found. Studio 324 produces designs that speak directly to our affinity for where we call “home” – despite the family’s own inability to settle…
Wait: they finally have settled – and they’re right here in T.O.
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