One of the beer fridges at 4th & 7, stocked full of beers to-go, a new possibility during the COVID-19 pandemic.
One of the beer fridges at 4th & 7, stocked full of beers to-go, a new possibility during the COVID-19 pandemic.

Faced with uncertainty

“The new normal”: a phrase many of us had gotten used to saying in recent months. And then the murder of George Floyd made how truly “new” whatever “normal” might become in the future. I had written most of this article, about how Toronto hospitality in COVID-19 is adjusting, prior to that horrific event, but happily put the publication of this on hold to focus my attention where it was needed most – on listening and learning about the black experience in North America, and lending my voice when appropriate to protesting social injustice and systemic racism.

While I continue to try to do whatever role I believe is helpful to this fight for justice, I also need to return some energies back to this – to shining light on some local businesses from the hard-hit hospitality industry in Toronto during the pandemic.

It is, I must admit, a bit ironic, that the day I go to publish this, the majority of the Ontario market reopens many of the hospitality establishments across the province, in a limited capacity, of course. Toronto though is not included in today’s reopening. Thankfully, my article remains somewhat relevant…

Well, it’s relevant either way, really – some changes are probably here to stay.

This ain’t easy: Toronto hospitality in COVID-19

It hasn’t been easy for any of us, this new stay-at-home world we find ourselves in. Plexiglass partitions and outdoor lineups have become the new normal, allowing many businesses to continue an adjusted, pseudo-operation. Visiting a Metro or Shoppers Drugmart (pretty much the only regular places I visit these days) is a new experience, but one that we all believe will, as we contain COVID-19 and develop a vaccine, gradually shift back to the ‘way things were.’

We mostly expect that on the other side of this pandemic, we’ll all be able to wander in and out of Metros and Shoppers Drugmarts without the need for outdoor lineups, physical distancing, and plexiglass partitions. Granted, it seems that some changes will need to be kept (perhaps partitions? perhaps building capacities?), that returning to exactly the ‘way things were’ is not a real option (not if we want to prevent any future virus from producing a similar pandemic). Yet, I think most of us believe that, for the most part, visiting a grocery store in the future will not be too much different than the ‘way things were.’

Less than 5% (and we’re not talking ABVs)

An industry hit particularly hard by the pandemic is, to little surprise, the hospitality industry. Bars and restaurants especially are, in the ‘normal world,’ main hubs for social interaction. Consequently, with physical distancing being our biggest shield for preventing the spread of the virus, they will certainly be some of the last places to reopen in any way resembling what they looked like before. These businesses have been hit particularly hard, with one local owner (not from one of the venues I focus on below) drearily conceding to me recently that their current revenue, under a new, COVID-19-inspired model, is “less than 5% of what we were generating before the pandemic.”

That’s not an insignificant difference. Clearly. With a much longer runway than many other businesses to cover before things can safely go back to the ‘way things were,’ bars and restaurants, as we once new them, may be changed forever (ok, that’s a bit of hyperbole, but not completely). That longer runway means that if these businesses are going to survive they need to reimagine their business model, and one that may see them remain in that model whenever it is that we ‘reach the other side’ of the pandemic.

And that model, necessarily, needs to be retail rather than service. Service clearly cannot exist during the pandemic – at least not for some time, and not nearly to the capacity of before. (As many of us have heard, when bars and restaurants are able to reopen, they will be able to do so only in a limited capacity, one that ensures physical distancing within the establishment – one that likely, at best, will only be able to serve perhaps 30% of the guests they served prior – currently, outside of Toronto, those places allowed to open are only allowed service in outdoor spaces.)

In other words, many establishments will be faced with having to operate with “less than 5% revenue” until some unknown point at which they will be able to reopen at 30% capacity.

This is obviously an incredibly difficult situation to be in – one that, as I just worded it above, sounds, to me, pretty much impossible to survive. I spent 8 years working in this industry myself, and this, especially for small businesses, scares me incredibly.

Exploring venues

I decided to explore some of these establishments to see the sorts of efforts and ideas Toronto hospitality in COVID-19 was producing to navigate the ‘new normal’ they had been thrust into. Some venues are providing some exciting new concepts, and concepts that they may keep indefinitely, partially changing the landscape of hospitality and how we as consumers in Toronto and Ontario will have access to craft beer, and alcohol in general.

It’s a very scary time in the hospitality industry, but there’s also some things to be excited for. Let me be clear though that, firstly, local businesses are in dire need of support right now – there has never been a more important time to support local than now. Avoid the lines at the LCBO, and visit your local to pick up your nightly beverages – and maybe even your dinner. This is really kind of your civic duty now, as far as I’m concerned.

Secondly, while this is a dire situation, and one that I do not want to wash over, I also want to try to highlight some of the more positive developments I’ve uncovered, and will therefore work to avoid speaking too much about the dire situation these businesses are in – but that does not mean the dire situation does not exist. It is dire, and we, as a community, need to work together to support each other so that we also make it to the other side together.

I’ve chosen 3 Toronto bars/restaurants to focus on, each with their own strategy of how to manage the pandemic, but I encourage all of you to investigate bars and restaurants in your neighbourhoods as well. I have, below, created a limited list of establishments in Toronto offering to-go food and beverage, but this is certainly not extensive – please do investigate your local neighbourhoods yourselves.

Let’s get to some of the exciting things, shall we?

4th & 7

Toronto Hospitality in COVID-19: The 4th & 7 storefront is indescript, except for this lunch board on the sidewalk - look for the windows with plants hanging in the front.
The 4th & 7 storefront is indescript, except for this lunch board on the sidewalk – look for the windows with plants hanging in the front.

4th and 7 makes me very excited. The venue may have made the luckiest move in restaurant history. Co-owner Jeff Caires had spent the previous 14 years operating one of Toronto’s first and finest craft beer bars, Tequila Bookworm, (the latter 10 years he spent as co-owner). Faced with a significant rent increase, Jeff came to the sad conclusion that the new cost would not allow Tequila Bookworm to remain a viable business, and decided to close the doors after 28 years in business (thanks, Toronto’s real estate ridiculousness!). This was at the end of January. This was, I’d perhaps say, in the nick of time.

Yet, Jeff certainly wasn’t done with hospitality, as his other bar, which opened in 2015 on Bloor St West, dubbed “The 4-7,” he could lend all of his energies towards.

And then COVID-19 hit.

I’ll admit now that if I was Jeff, faced with having to close one business one month, only to have to close your other business the next month amidst a pandemic would leave me, well, completely and utterly deflated, probably ready to hang up my bar rag for good.

Not Jeff. No, Jeff quickly moved as soon as the Ontario government opened up bars and restaurants to the possibility of to-go alcohol sales. He reimagined The 4-7 as a craft beer retail shop, using places like Alphabet City Brewing in New York as a blueprint, and then tweaked the branding to reflect this change, renaming the shop “4th & 7.” He went on day trips in his car, visiting breweries across the province and purchasing large amounts of bottled and canned beer that one cannot find at the LCBO or Beer Store. He continues to build his stock, seemingly adding a new shelf to the massive walls of craft beer on offer every week.

Bottles and tall boys and stubbies - oh my! This is only a peek at a portion of the 4th & 7 retail offerings.
Bottles and tall boys and stubbies – oh my! This is only a peek at a portion of the 4th & 7 retail offerings.

This is a store I myself have dreamed of being in Toronto. A store that could not have existed before COVID-19: “The license we have is good until December 31st, 2020,” Jeff explained, “But if I was a betting man, I’d bet that this license will be grandfathered in, and that, unless the entire community goes up in arms about it afterwards – which I see no reason why they would – this model is here to stay.”

“Jeff, you did bet on this!”

“Ya, that’s true, I guess – haha!”

4th & 7, as the plan stands today, is to never open as a bar or restaurant again, but to remain in the retail space, as a craft beer boutique.

“Eventually, I would like to offer the possibility of sampling in the shop, a small sitting area or bar where guests can purchase a bottle or can and drink it within the shop – but that’s down the road, with some legalities that will still need to be sorted, obviously.”

4th & 7 is a great breath of fresh air that really excites me. Jeff’s selection so far is very well curated, and I can only see that improving as he continues to build his stock. The shop itself is likely one of the (if not the) first of its kind in Ontario, and provides a new way that you and I as consumers can obtain the beverages we love so much. And that’s very exciting.

Annex Food Hall

Toronto Hospitality in COVID-19A look at the interior of the Annex Food Hall, still under renovations at the time of my visit.
A look at the interior of the Annex Food Hall, still under renovations at the time of my visit.

The Annex Food Hall is another new venue in Toronto, opening during the pandemic. Residing in the former space of Superfresh, the long-standing grocery store that much of the Annex neighbourhood grew up around, the new space is a grocery store of sorts, albeit, “groceries” to be eaten pretty much immediately upon purchase.

The concept is, as the name suggests, a food hall, with long tables and benches lining the centre of the large space. A number of independent restaurants share the space with their own individual stalls that circle the room: PG Chucks (known for their crispy chicken sandwiches), Eat BKK (offering Bangkok-style street food), Mean Bao (with their delightful steam buns), Ramona’s Kitchen (cooking breakfasts and brunches all day), El Nahual (featuring hand-crafted tacos), and the Masala Guys (with delicious Indian cuisine). It’s an excellent mix of food options that should satisfy any taste.

As of my visit, the venue was still renovating and setting up it’s operation, although most of the food stalls were open for to-go orders (only PG Chucks and El Nuhual remained closed). The bar area is focussing on craft beer and cider, and was still building stock and menus at the time, although to-go beer of the stock they currently carried was available for purchase.

That was when I visited 3 weeks ago, now operations are more or less in full swing (El Nuhual is now open, and the Superfresh Bar is fully stocked – check the Annex Food Hall’s Instagram account for the most recent updates). What’s exciting about the concept, other than all the food and beverage options offered in one space, is how the team there intends to keep the retail alcohol once restrictions on service are lifted.

Still in the process of creating their clever periodic table-inspired retail menu wall when I visited, Annex Food Hall has more than 40 different craft beers available to go.
Still in the process of creating their clever periodic table-inspired retail menu wall when I visited, Annex Food Hall has more than 40 different craft beers available to go.

They’ve currently built a large menu wall with all their retail to-go products, which they’ve placed on top of the bar, but this is merely to work for now, during the pandemic. Once restrictions can be lifted, Annex Food Hall is already planning where to move the bottle shop once they can open the bar properly. Like 4th & 7, Annex Food Hall does not plan to get rid of their retail program, but unlike 4th & 7, they do intend to stick to their original concept of a restaurant/food hall, while adding the retail side to the concept.

Their beer list is fairly extensive (more than 40 brews) and does a good job of offering products more difficult to find – indeed, I didn’t even know of Perth Brewery until my visit at Annex Food Hall. I really like what they’ve done with the space inside here, and cannot wait to see this place in full operations – whenever that can take place… But I’ll definitely be stopping by in the meantime for a few to-go cans and something (tacos? brunch? Indian?!) to fill my belly. Good idea? I’d say so!

Hugs & Sarcasm

Toronto Hospitality in COVID-19: The new branding for the old HBar - now adopting their previous slogan as their new name: "Hugs & Sarcasm" (what any patron wants from a bartender!).
The new branding for the old HBar – now adopting their previous slogan as their new name: “Hugs & Sarcasm” (what any patron wants from a bartender!).

Hugs & Sarcasm “opened” during the pandemic as well, but they had also been in their spot for around 5 years, under the moniker HBar. With the pandemic shutting down operations, the partners at HBar decided it was an excellent time to rebrand and implement new ideas to their bar by renovating the space.

Both bars (one on each floor) have moved. Gone are the dark barn board walls, replaced with bright, white brick wall paper. The previous slogan HBar had been using for years became their new name: Hugs & Sarcasm. As the owners and staff here are, this is a place to be comfortably verbally abused as you enjoy a pint and receive hugs after a Raptors victory.

Of course now there’s no Raptors and no pints being poured at either bar in Hugs & Sarcasm, but the team has slowly reopened, first adding pick-up food kits, then alcohol, and finally providing a to-go food menu. While the beer selection is not to the level of the Annex Food Hall, and certainly not to 4th & 7’s (although I will say that I happily found Hugs & Sarcasm serving Phillips Brewing’s “Oro Blanco” grapefruit sour from Victoria, BC, so that’s completely awesome!), what interests me more about what Hugs & Sarcasm are doing is their food kit program.

The accessories provided in Hugs & Sarcasm's Veggie Burger food kit.
The accessories provided in Hugs & Sarcasm’s Veggie Burger food kit (for 2).

Take the veggie burger kit (their most popular), which comes with veggie burger patty mix (made with beets, carrots, sunflower seeds, sesame seeds, rice), goat cheese, red onion marmalade, lettuce, and burger buns (for two people). These are ordered in advance on their online shop, and then are ready to be picked up within 24 hours.

The infamous Hugs & Sarcasm veggie burger patties included in their food kits (2 patties per kit).
The infamous Hugs & Sarcasm veggie burger patties included in their food kits (2 patties per kit).

The idea arose because Hugs & Sarcasm had closed for renovations but many of their regular clientele were begging them for their notoriously delicious veggie burger. Of course, attempting to cook food during renovations is likely not going to go well, but the team figured they could at least prepare kits that their regulars could cook at home. So far, the kits are total hits.

Slowly, as they complete final details and tidy up the renovations, Hugs & Sarcasm has opened again, with abbreviated hours of operation, but this new space now helps lead the charge of ‘at-home-food-kits’ in Toronto, something that a number of other establishments have also begun doing their own versions of.

I really dig the idea of planning a meal in advance like this that you know comes from a reliable place, but something that you also get to get your hands dirty making. It’s kind of a psychological trick, right? Hugs & Sarcasm really prepare the meal, develop the recipe and acquire the ingredients, but you get to feel as if it was really only you who made it (when you cook it). And the food we cook for ourselves always seems to taste just a little bit better in our own minds, doesn’t it? Yep – the kits are hits.

The new abnormal

That’s only 3 places – there are hundreds just like them all working their butts off trying to manage the situation we all find ourselves in. I really want you to head out to your local establishments and offer the support you are able to.

We’re all struggling now, but if we all work to support each other, then we’ll make it through this less scathed. Try to shut everyone else out and do this solo? Not going to work very well for you or anyone else right now. We need each other to get back to ‘normal.’

That said, a “new normal” sounds so much better if what that means is supporting each other and working together to fix our common problems to a greater extent than we ever had before. The pandemic forced us to turn more that way – the Black Lives Matter movement is revealing that together is truly the only way to proceed in a just world.

As much as I enjoy craft beer and feel excited for the future retail possibilities Toronto hospitality in COVID-19 has produced, an increased sense of togetherness is way, way more exciting. Let’s use this fertile ground we’re currently on to influence positive, lasting change that makes us all closer together.

And let’s do that over a pint of local craft beer, please.

A big shoutout and huge thank you to Ajeet Grover of Common Good Brewing for suggesting this subject to me, and helping me make it happen – I could not have done this without you, sir!

Toronto hospitality in COVID-19: a list of establishments worth visiting now (and later!)

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